Back to Istanbul

We take a ferry a Bandirma for Istanbul. We squeeze into first class and we have the most pleasant crossing, thinking that we are cutting some serious traveling time. Once in Istanbul it took us forever to find the hotel because the access were close to traffic. Thanks to the kindness of a stranger we finally made it. We go back to our favorite first night restaurant, and we start our ritual shopping. Next day we continue at the bazaar, it is not overwhelming and a very pleasant experience even for someone who doesn't like to shop. We don't want to miss the archaeological museum and we encounter the president of Turkey doing his little visit too! What a unpretentious world! We take a walk of the Bosphorous and group of kids were jumping in the water, a young photographer were taking pictures of them and also of M and O without asking anyone permission. We have dinner in Bebek (the Soho of Istanbul), with all the beautiful people and overpriced menu. That's Istanbul too. We missed our plane because we realize half way we go in the wrong airport, however we have to drop the rental car...oh well it means another night in Istanbul staying in the Asian side. We have dinner overlooking the Marmara sea, how bad can it be!

Canakkale - Troy's neighbours

We stop there just to take our excursion to Tray, we have a great deal on the newly renovated hotel across the boardwalk. There is a Troy horse donated by Hollywood that they use for the movie, apparently with more resemblance with the original one that the one is on the actual site! There was an important battle fought here " The battle of Gallopoli" where Ataturk show his talent as a military conductor and eventually as the father of the nation. Next day we visit Troy, and you revisit your hours in school talking about Troy! The ruins are not impressive but the memory and the legend of it is. The different layers of the city are recognizable and it is a pleasant walk.

Assos

The driving to Assos is interesting, a narrow road overlooking the sea, it is quaint, secluded, peaceful. Our hotel is a bit resortish but the tourists are locals which makes the experience authentic. Next day we enjoy the peaceful rocky beach with extremely transparent water even if a bit chilly, it is a good place to relax! Ask the kids

Ayvalik

We find an accommodation in the little hotel run by German-Turkish family in the island of Cunda. We have the most delicious dinner on a pier, where they were able to protect us for the evening wind. Next day we explore the beach and we drive to the top of the hill to an incredible view of the Aegean sea and the little mythological islands.

Selcuk -Ephese

Ok now we are in the Romans ruins mood! You can't avoid Ephese. We find an hotel a Selcuk with a great view of the castle. It is a third floor with no elevator but we get a great semi-private terrace and a small pool. Next day we are extremely lucky with the weather, it is sunny but windy so our visit of the ruins is actually pleasant. Besides the clearly impressed Roman ruins, we see a group of South African women dressed in the most colorful and beautiful dress that attracted the attention as much as the ruins. For the kids the major attraction were the cats, we counted 18 Romans cats.

Pamukkale - the white

We drive inline to see the limestone basins of Pamukkale, it is impressive and pretty crowded but then we start walking way toward the other reconstructed basins and frankly as beautiful and much more enjoyable as the crowd was evaporating. On the other side of the basins there are interesting Roman ruins that we visited in the comfort of our swimming suite. It is a pleasant walk from pool to pool you take a little dip and avoid the midday heat. On the other side of the walk there are interesting Romans ruins. Oh these Romans knew where to settle! On the way back it is 2 p.m. it gets hot and we have an enjoyable lunch in the shade of the tree.

Fethiye

We had heard about this little touristic town, he had a pleasant board walk and choices of restaurants but it was enough to spend an evening

Oludeniz - the paradisiac peninsula

We stay in the most magnificent accomodation so far, it is immerse in a luxurious vegetation with a incredible view. So I already love the over presence of the bunganvillae, swimming in the pool overlooking the gulf and the oversize room and the veranda with great pillows to lay on. Clearly the great attraction of the place is this paradisiac peninsula with transparent water with the greatest variety of blue and green.

Kas - the unspoiled beauty

The drive is very scenic and the nature very unspoiled. The town is picturesque with a combination of cobblestone streets, little boutiques and so much charm. It was probably my favorite town where I wanted to spoil myself and look at people at the terrace and enjoying the colors of flowers. The bluest sea water was in the bay of Kas and eating Turkish crepe made on the beach was the memory I will keep for a long time. Beauty is a combination of factors and in Kas you had them all!

Side - first Mediterranean stop

It is always exciting to be able to dive in your sea! The water is warm... Side is a bit invaded by the Brits however is pleasant and colorful and there is a place where we are enjoying the "dolce far niente" after all over hikes and cultural visits. There are Roman ruins at the entrance of town and a remarkable well preserved temple at the end of the boardwalk. Matthias is having his fist cocktail (virgin) but with an umbrella, Oscar wants only the umbrella!

Konya - used to be dusty

We stopped because we didn't want to drive all the way to the coast but it was a more interesting place that I had imagined. It was the real thing. Taib told me to visit the Rumi's shrine, a sufi poet and most important represent a different way of looking at Islam with would englobe a more universal and open message. The shrine is a very popular visit for Muslims and it was interesting how the whirling dervishes are embedded in this tradition. From Stefania's account that visited Konya 20+ years ago she had the memory of a dusty city. I share the story with my restaurant neighbors that confirmed, today is not dusty anymore but bursting with activities and people from all walk of life and degree of conservatism invading the streets at night for the traditional stroll. It was a good visit, a real peep into Turkish life.

Cappadocia - all that is meant to be

On our way from Ankara we stop at Salt Lake which remind me on a lesser scale of Salt desert in Bolivia. The colors and the reflection of the water and the pleasant sensation of walking bare foot on the bottom of the lake that felt like soft powder. After few hours driving the scenario of Cappadocia is defined: those picks and canyons at sunset are magnificent and all around is peaceful. It smells the dust of the rocks and the magic of the people that sought refuge in it. They are also dwellings which continue to makes the place unique. We get in Goreme that retains the charm of a touristic village, it is the place where to stay to enjoy the view. Our hotel hosts are welcoming and our room have superb view of the hot air balloon and it was as magical as actually doing it the next day. We spend the days walking through valley of love, the underground city, the open air museum with all its painted chapel in the rocks and we spend the afternoon strolling in Avanos, a mix of Turkish and Greek village where people stroll and enjoy the perfect temperature. That crossing between Greeks and Turkish village was very common all across our trip. Cappadocia will be from above or underground one of the most incredible place I have ever been. There is roughness and sweetness in those rocks and breakfast overlooking them all was a really good way to start the day! My best memory is the old man in the valley who wanted to give me "Chai chai" ma I wanted just fresh water, I manage of all language to ask him in German (probably part of the 12 words I master) and here I go having served water from the source. I had a smile and a hug too! I also bought a little bracelet by the little home-merchant next to the hotel. The mom and the young daughters were in charge of the business. I ask if the could make the bracelet smaller and with delicate gesture the mom was removing the beads. It was still too big but I am keeping it that way, it seems such a tedious job for such a little amount of gain. It reminds me that kindness is not measure in terms of gain but in gestures.

Ankara the unikely capital

We had a quick overnight stop in Ankara on our way to Cappadocia. We find a nice, friendly hotel in the Soho-like area of Ankara where flock of youngester sip their beers. So the next morning we did, as any good tourist would do, visit the Ataturk Mausoleum. It is the most secular religious like combination. Clearly the man counted for the history of this country, and he also make sure that his legacy was not lost in translation. The visit was pleasant and Ankara in general was better than I expected: a little Washinghton DC feels, big city but particularly chaotic and accepting his condition of the second city.

Istanbul the Magnificent

First impression of this city is that everything seems to coexist with a certain old gentleness. I enjoy the city like most of other tourists who flock here every year but I love the fact I find what I was craving for: colors, smiles, beauty, ancient history, exoticism and familiarity.. From every angle I can't see an uninteresting spot, the stray cats seem well nourish, the fish at the market is fresh, and the people are in a continuous interactions with their peers. Istanbul is the city you have to see once in your life for your traveling experience to feel complete. It carries its past, present, future, old value, kindness, entrepreneurial spirit, enthusiasm and modernization. It still leave the space to dream and to breath human air. It is not a country sold to tourists, this country has a big, proud soul!